A Whole Lotta Wines Revisited

This post revisits five old acquaintances, all of them extremely good wines. Tasting just as good as the last time they were poured.

Last summer, I visited Philippe Chavy in Puligny-Montrachet. All of his wines have been tasted in a previous post. In that particular tasting, the 2004 Meursault-Blagny 1er Cru Sous le Dos d’Âne, originating from a vineyard located in the village of Blagny, came out best. There is no reason to reappraise that judgment. Golden yellow from years of bottle maturation. Beautiful nose; butter, almonds, fresh herbs, red apples, honey and loads of minerals. Almost like newly-mown hay. Mouth-filling, round and fat…this is a powerful wine. Just enough oak used. Philippe uses about 30 percent new oak. Toast, tropical fruit, nuts and minerals on the palette. Balanced, complex and long. Magnificent. 93p. 

Sign up for Christer Ferm’s wine letter at ferm@orange.fr. He also distributes the next one.

Which is 2007 Domaine les Pallières Terrasse du Diable from Gigondas, neighboring Châteauneuf du Pape. The Gigondas wines are typically dwarfed by the CndPs, but this beats most CNdPs. Licorice, blackberries, white pepper, cured meat, tobacco and black tea on the nose. Big but balanced and very elegant. Similar in style to Domaine de la Janasse. 90% Grenache, 5% Mourvédre and 5% Clairette from vines with an average age of 45 years. Highly recommended. The 2010 is only 216 SEK from Christer Ferm. Extremely good value. Like finding a good CNdP for the same money. 91p.

It would have been the best Gigondas I’ve ever had if it had not been for its sister wine 2007 Domaine les Pallières Les Racines. Black cherries, cedar and white pepper on the nose. The wine is a blend of 80% Grenache, 8% Syrah, 7% Cinsault and 5% Clairette. The vines have an average age of 60 years. Slightly more fruit-driven than the Terrasse du Diable, which is clearly spicier. It is really a matter of taste which one you prefer. 92p.

The 1996 Mailly Grand Cru Champagne La Terre is in good form. From the cooperative located in the village with the same name. The village is grand cru for Pinot Noir. I had this to foie gras and it was nice. The wine smells of apples, minerals, citrus and bread. Not really as good as 1,5 years ago. Nice acidity in spite of its age. 90p.

Finally, we have the mighty 1998 Le Macchiole Paleo Rosso, which is a monster of a wine. A blend of 85% Cabernet sauvignon, 10% Cabernet franc and 5% Sangiovese (back then, now it is 100% Cabernet franc!). Black currant, grass, tobacco, leather. Very herbaceous and elegant at 13% ABV. Perfectly balanced and showing enormous complexity. 95p.

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out /  Change )

Google photo

You are commenting using your Google account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s

%d bloggers like this: