2007 Domaine Pegau Réservée

Domain Pegau from Châteauneuf-du-Pape is a highly esteemed producer. Certainly one of the best in the area and, judging by the extremely high marks awarded in wine reviews, this may very well be one of the best producers period. They generally make three red cuveés: the Réservée and the Laurence is made basically every year, and are the same wines with the difference that the Laurence is kept in wooden cask for another 18-24 months. The prestige cuvée da Capo is made in exceptional years only. To my knowledge, the da Capo is the only wine to ever have scored a full 100 points by Robert Parker in all its vintages so far (1998, 2000, 2003 and 2007).

Their “standard” cuvée – 2007 Domaine Pegau Réservée – is great, but then 07 is considered an exceptional year in the Southern Rhône. This is truly an amazing CNdP. I aired it for an hour, and perhaps it would fare even better with another couple of hours, because this is essentially a powerful wine in a typically powerful vintage. It will certainly improve in another couple of years or even in five, ten or fifteen years. This wine really packs punches and is truly old-school. Not very fruit-driven. Very dense on the nose with fresh herbs, spices minerals and dark fruit. Compact on the palate but still manages to open up and is long and complex and the taste of licorice and garrigue is just magnificent. There is so much going on here. Balanced but still slightly to noisy. Intense. This may be the best CNdP I’ve ever had. Luckily I have another five bottles, but I will stuff them in the cellar for another two or three years. At 450 SEK, this is still good value for money. For the same money in Bordeaux, Burgundy, Piemonte, Tuscany or California you rarely get 94p.

Me and my wife also had a
1998 Grand-Puy-Lacoste
 from Pauillac. This is really an old Bordeaux fifth-growth work horse; it always manages to deliver and I don’t think this wine have ever disappointed me. Normally this is as typical a Pauillac as a wine gets with a black currant nose and a chewy, big and dense body. However, this being a 1998, there is not much fruit left, but spices, pencil shavings, cedar tree, game and leather. It can certainly be attributed other characteristics than its ordinary ones due to 13 years of maturation. This is what you really appreciate about a nice Bordeaux. Powerful, spicy, full-bodied and long. I bought this years ago via a negociant (Beyerman) in Bordeaux. Still four bottles left! However, it surfaced at the Systembolaget the other year for about 600 SEK. 90p.

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