Run-off Heat

This entry covers a handful of wines I’ve drunk the last weeks. Starting off with the white one: 2009 Bründlmayer Zöbinger Heiligenstein Riesling, this is a beautiful wine with notes of peaches, honey and tropical fruits. Young, fresh but still nicely structured and very balanced. I could drink this every day, it’s an extremely nice wine. Highly recommended as aperitif even though it most certainly also pairs fine with fish. 88p

2006 Guigal Crozes-Hermitage is a killer wine. This is such an evident Northern Rhône-Syrah it’s almost ridiculous! Cured meat, white pepper, black berries. Very gamey. Nice acidity, long, well-balanced, mature, peppery. I doesn’t get much better for this kind of money. This is one of the finest producers in the Rhône valley, or actually one of the finest producers full stop. At 13% ABV and outstanding elegance, this is not your fruit-punch, over-extracted, New Worldish-style Shiraz. Do yourself a favor and get your hands on a couple of bottles while you still can. 90p.

2007 Roberto Voerzio Langhe Nebbiolo is still too much of a baby. You could go to jail for drinking this one. This guy is one of the most skilled producers in Piemonte and surely knows what he is doing. His Barolos sell for the price of a used car, and if you can’t afford them, the Langhe Nebbiolo is an option even though I would assume they do not have more in common than the grape variety. Notes of sloe and tobacco. Very tight and austere. High acidity. Should soften with further maturation. 86p.

I bought a case of 2005 Château Labégorce via Tryffelsvinet from Beyerman, a négociant in Bordeaux. Tryffelsvinet arranges a Bordeaux tasting each autumn at Nordiska Museet in Stockholm. Don’t miss that one! At this event, Beyerman showcases all “his” wines in Bordeaux for peanuts. Labégorce is a left bank-wine from Margaux and is not considered a top wine. However, 2005 is a benchmark vintage in Bordeaux, and many producers made nice wines. Cabernet sauvignon 50%, Merlot 45%, Cabernet franc 3%, Petit verdot 2%. Black currant, cedar tree, minerals. Medium-bodied. Soft tannins. 85p.

Finally, one of the producers (if not THE producer) that got me into being a wine geek in the first place: 2006 Thelema Cabernet Sauvignon. Me and my wife visited South Africa back in 2004 with an incipient wine interest, and after having travelled SA for a month with all the wines offered, we were caught. As I remember it, Thelema was one of the best wines we tasted. However, I have great problems with this one. It’s like sticking your nose in an ashtray. Smokey tones are evident in most SA reds, but they are just too predominant in the Thelema. Beneath all the smoke, there are black currants, spices and cedar. It is better the second evening, but the smoke almost comes on as a defect. The smokey sensation is somewhat levelled out with food. But this is not my kind of wine. 80p.

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